Round Brilliant Cut Diamond

History

The original round brilliant cut was create by Marcel Tolkowsky in the early 20th century. In the process of cutting a round brilliant often more than 50 percent is lost of the original rough. The cut resembles a cone shape.

The Cut Modern round brilliants have 58 facets (or 57 without culet), 33 of which on the crown (top half) and 25 on the pavilion side (bottom). Occasionally the girdle is facetted however if so these are not counted towards the cut total. On the top half we find 8 start facets, 8 bezel facets and 16 upper girdle facets. On the bottom half we find 16 lower and upper girdle facets (each), 8 pavillion facets and potentially a culet.

Several organisations have come up with grading standards. They all disagree somewhat as to what are the best characteristic proportions and ratio’s.

Hearts and Arrows

Heart and Arrows refers to a pattern that can be seen if the top table facet is exactly perpendicular to the bottom half or pavilion of the diamond and other facets are precisely aligned with great symmetry. The pattern is viewed under a gemscope.

Whilst H&A indicates a great cut grade it may not necessarily be the most brilliant. The key to brilliance is in facet placement rather than pattern. Hence not all ideal rounds exhibit the H&A effect.

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